Reloading Cast Lead Bullets Overview

One could debate there are many reasons for reloading. In my opinion there are two main reasons for reloading 1) Hobby 2) Cost Savings.

I started reloading nearly 25 years ago.  At the time I was a member of a local gun club and enjoyed shooting.  For me, reloading was just an extension of that: a hobby.  I quickly realized that the cost of buying boxed ammunition would drastically reduce my days at the range.  This was the point in which economics became the main driver for reloading.  

Simply stated, buying components and putting them together is far cheaper than purchasing boxed ammunition.  Buying cast bullets rather than jacketed or plated is an intricate part of the total cost savings. 

In the early years I was against lead cast bullets because the world of reloading was unknown to me.  I did not see the overall Return on Investment (ROI). No one ever spelled it out for me in terms of Money.  How much could I really save reloading my own ammunition?   I was also terrified of words like “leading” or “fouling”.  This fear kept me paying for the expensive jacketed bullets until finally, the Cost caused me to educate myself.

If you can take the time to educate yourself on the benefits of lead cast bullets and reloading, you cannot dismiss the economics of lead vs. jacketed bullets.  Please do not get me wrong, jacketed bullets have their place - in Rifles for example.  Some require the high Velocity of a jacketed bullet, which cannot be disputed.  For example the target shooter, shooting 1000s of rounds of bullets per week or the hunter gearing up for the season, reloading saves a tremendous amount of money.  Even if you do not fall into 1 of these 2 categories you will see in the ROI tab how quickly your payback will come by reloading your own ammunition. From novice to pro, reloading makes sense for everyone! 

At first glance you may feel overwhelmed on where to start and what equipment you will need to get started reloading your bullets.  More importantly, you will be asking yourself, how much is this going to cost me?  Producing quality, accurate, and dependable ammunition is not complicated and can be done at minimal cost!

To get started, you will need the proper Equipment, Components, Safety gear, and a Load Data Book.

Reloading Equipment

Please do not set out thinking you need every possible widget.  You may already have some of the equipment in your workshop.  You will only need a handful of items (from there you can expand as/if needed).  Presses, Dies, Scales, Micrometer or Caliper, Case Trimmer, and a Reloading Bench are the essentials. 

Bullet Components

You will need to have the following 4 Bullet Components: Brass, Cast Lead Bullets, Primers and Powder.

Brass: can be purchased new or used (once fired). 

Cast bullets: choose the proper caliber for what you are wishing to reload. 

Primers and Powder: can be purchased from local sporting goods stores, like a Cabelas or Gander Mountain.  They are also available online but you will be charged with an additional hazards fee.  This additional fee only makes sense if you are purchasing large quantities to offset the cost.

These components (brass, cast bullets, primers, powder) make up the entire Bullet.

Reloading Safety

Glasses, Powder Storage and Primer Storage need to be in a separate location, away from your loading or work zone.  Items need to be stored in a dry cool area; moisture will damage the powder and the primers.

Load Data Book

Invest in a comprehensive Load manual.  Every caliber that is shot has a minimum and maximum charge or load data that is required for the bullets’ powder.  Each load chart has been through countless hours of testing to ensure proper load data and safety.  The load reference charts or manuals are consistent throughout the industry but each caliber and each grain within that caliber has a unique data set.  And then each powder is unique so the number will vary based on the powder.  While this may sound confusing, it is best explained in your load data book…it is your main reference tool for ensuring your quality bullet. Most of these books will walk you through the “how to” of reloading in addition to supplying the data.  It’s your Bible of Reloading.  The  Lee 2^nd addition Reloading Manual and Hornady’s, Handbook of Cartridge Reloading 7^th addition are great resources.  Unless a manufacturer introduces a new bullet, existing load data is sufficient…there is no need to have to repurchase a new manual annually.  Invest in a quality manual upfront! 

Where to Reload Bullets

Just about any location in your house, apartment, shop or shed can be used to reload Bullets.  To keep it practical, I would suggest a basement, garage or work shop as a good place to set up.  It will not take up a lot of room.

The Reloading Bench is going to be the center of your operation.  All of your reloading will be done here so either purchase or build a solid reloading bench.  Ensure the bench is level and well anchored to maintain its needed stability. Depending on the cartridge you are loading, there can be a great deal of pressure with the up and down stroke of the reloading press.  Below is a picture of solid bench for reloading Bullets.  It’s an easy design for you do-it-yourself folks.  For those of you looking to just buy one, any home improvement store will carry these, just be sure it is sturdy!

Reloading How-To Steps

Now that you have all of the necessary equipment for reloading, lets get started.  To start, be sure to familiarize yourself with the instructions that you receive with your equipment, there is always a lot of great information these books.  Each reloading manufacturer differs a bit in their equipment, but the overall concept is the same.

The following steps should only be used for reference. Please know that what you are about to dive into can be dangerous.  Improperly reloading ammunition can cause serious personal injury.  Reloading should only be done by competent persons under proper instruction. Always use proper tools and safety gear when reloading.  Since what you are doing is beyond our control, we disclaim all liability for any consequential injuries or damages which may result.  The following is for reference only.

For the sake of this instruction section, let’s use the .357 Magnum as a reference.  I enjoy shooting the 158 Gr. Semi Wad Cutter.

Step 1. Set Up -  Spend a few hours getting all of your equipment organized and your reloading press mounted to your bench.  Take the time to do this now as it will save you time and frustration down the road.  Do not forget an updated load chart or load manual is essential.  

Step 2. Components -  Once your press is mounted to the bench and you are organized, you are ready to begin.  You will need powder, primers, cast bullets, and cases.  The primers, powder, and cast bullets will be new.  The cases will be either new or used.  By used, I am referring to once fired brass.  Used cases will be just as effective as new, but they may require a little more work to prepare for reloading.  I will assume you are using used brass cases as they are far more cost effective than new.

Step 3. Case Prep -   If you are using used brass cases, now is the time to clean, trim and debur them.  Deburing removes the sharp edge at the case mouth that is left behind from trimming.  Inspect for any damage to the case such as cracks and dents, recycling any brass that you won’t be using.  It is now time to size the case. Sizing the case brings it back to its correct diameter.  In your press, insert the correct sizing die and corresponding shell holder.  If you happen to be using carbide sizing dies no lubrication is needed.  If not, lubricate the outside of the case and place it in the shell holder. Using the press, push the case up into the resizing die and return it back down.  The case is now sized.  Remove the case and measure the length with a caliper.  Compare the length to the load manual and trim if necessary. 

Step 4. Depriming the Case -  Now that the case is resized you can deprime it.  With some dies, as you resize the case you can deprime it in the same step.  In either event, now is the time to deprime the case and clean the primer pocket.  You can clean the primer pocket with a primer pocket tool with a few rotations. 

Step 5.  Priming -  Prime the case.  There are a few different size primers depending what you are reloading.  Refer to your load manual for the proper primer.  The primer can be seated with either the press or a separate priming tool.  Insert the primer into the primer pocket, press firmly to do this.  Once seated, feel the bottom of the case.  The primer should be seated flush with the bottom of the case. 

Step 6.  Charge the Case -  Flare the case mouth and charge the case.  This is normally done with the same die in one step.  Flaring the case mouth slightly will allow you to seat the bullet more easily.  You want to do this with as little flare as possible, but enough to allow for easy inserting of the bullet.  Too much flare will cause the case mouth to split when crimping or firing.   To charge the case look at the load data manual and find the .357 Magnum and the 158 grain cast bullet.  Here you will see different types of powder and the minimum and maximum loads.  I would recommend using a medium charge and remember to never exceed maximum loads.  Once you have found the load for the powder in which you want to use, you are ready to charge the case.

This is the section where you need to concentrate and be focused.  You want to take extra care in charging the case.  For each case you will need to weigh the exact amount of grains of powder on a powder scale.  For example – HS-6 powder would require 7.0 grains powder to achieve 950 FPS (feet per second) with a 158 grain lead cast bullet.  Pour this powder into each case using a powder funnel.  Be sure you do not double charge or under charge the loads.

Step 7.  Bullet Seating -   Seating the bullet is the final step.  At you bench you now have a cleaned, primed, and charged case.  Place this case into the shell holder in your press.  Set the bullet on the case mouth (the area that you flared in an earlier step).  With the bullet seating die, insert the bullet into the case to the correct depth.  Refer to the load manual for what the maximum overall length is.  Once you have set the bullet to the depth required, the die will put a small crimp on the case mouth and bullet.  This will hold it in place and assure it won’t move prior to firing the round.

Step 8. Final Inspection -  Inspect your final product for any noticeable defects.  Some typical defects may be as follows:  a) Primer not seated properly. b) Too much crimp c) Bullet seated too deep; overall length incorrect. d)  Bullet not seated deep enough.

Take your loaded ammo to the range and enjoy shooting.  As long as you follow the load data and reload per your manufacturer instructions you will have a safe and enjoyable experience.